• Gman
    984
    Bottle tech serves a few purposes. No corners to gather oil. Small footprint to maximize press output. The least travel area for oil to get from the center to the outside compared to any other method. Ability to do multiple bags per squish. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few.
  • fatbiker
    160
    Thanks for the feedback. I’ll continue using BT!
  • medicalmark
    72
    owkub2bq2shg61ju.jpeg
    kucks9iklv2plzns.jpeg
    ia8m35qlkej014a8.jpeg

    Dw6000 it what I use does and decent job despite lack of controls
  • EconMan
    3.1k


    Yes, I do. Very much. :cool: For larger squishes it works fantastic. To smash a quick nug, I still (and always will) love my little M800, but doing larger sized bag squishes -- >= 14g -- I just love the 6000. It's all electric nature is really nice, and I really appreciate some of the ramp-up/ramp-down abilities. And since it is not a function of my strength, I'm really liking (given my penchant for record keeping) how it helps standardize pressure. And it has sufficient power to handle anything I want to do, without having too much power to be tempted to overdo it and screw it up -- low pressure, low heat is my mantra. And the plates and heater are uniform and of high quality.

    Is Bottletech a more efficient and effective method than simply packing a bag, folding the flap over, and then slide it in the press?fatbiker

    In a nutshell, "yes, but not necessarily." I write algorithms and heuristics in part for a living, so of course I love and hate them. Love them because life isn't possible without them, and hate them because by definition such rules are wrong, but nevertheless useful.

    Yes, ceteris paribus, all other things being equal, I prefer BT and advocate accordingly but there are exceptions. BT solves a lot of mistakes and omissions of process. It is quite simply more forgiving if you make a mistake. The big challenge being not "blowing out" on pressure ramp up (never seen one blow out at the end, when they blow they tend to do so in the beginning of pressure when PSI is the highest). Now all that said -- BT is the bomb usually for most folks and ALL newbies -- BUT there are situations when I don't use it and get better results with a pre-mold and bag almost the size of the plates.
    First, I can load a lot into it, often a full oz. Second, I use "tube bags" folding on each end. In the premold I "finger it" getting the nugs where I want them and planning out where I want the "rivers" to come from... this step might take 20 minutes.... each nug is placed where I want it. It looks like a coffin when I'm done, with a bulge in the middle (which when pressed pushes against the sides). Third, because when the Rosin is squished and melted out, it is released onto cold parchment paper, NOT hot plates (because the entire shape of the puck is rectangular, and just slightly smaller than the plates themselves).
    So the primary advantage of this methodology is the released Rosin does NOT sit and fry on the hot plates, but rather is released directly on the non-heated portion of the parchment paper not in direct contact with the plates. For taste-chasers like myself, who loath nasty tasting Rosin as if it came out of Rosie's ass chamber, it is a large advantage when squishing large amounts. The Rosin is NEVER overheated and that **is** a high tactical goal.... the best tasting rosin is rosin that never was allowed to get too hot or pressed too hard. For taste whores, this **is** often the choice.
  • fatbiker
    160
    With my press the plates are 7” long and 4” wide. Unless I press a large quantity there is no way I can prevent the rosin from coming in contact with the hot plates. I was thinking of shifting the bag closer to the front of the plates and not letting the parchment paper go all the way to the back of the plates. I’ve considered trying to direct the rosin out of the parchment paper. My concern is that the rosin being pressed out the back will be directed back into/under the bag. The rosin coming out of the sides will still hit the plates. I”m not sure what to do to prevent it from hitting the plates. I think when I press small amounts and the thin rosin hits the plates causes it to fry and become crystal like. I may just need to increase the amount of material I press per squish.
  • Gman
    984
    just keep your temps low, like 180-185f and it's ok to leave it on the plates for 2-4 minutes total press. It's really only on there form half way through.

    And I would check your plates as well, test in the middle with an oven thermometer. when it's at temp.
  • Gman
    984
    Ya for the record, I do non bottle tech all the time if I'm using smaller bags. Mainly because I want to press more than 7 at once and with bottle tech it'll be too high and could tilt during the press. SO in this case I'll just use the bag flat with really no difference since my tech is on point. I'll still go slow etc.
  • John Cocktostone
    752
    you have a pic of the m800 in use? That's pretty damn affordable if it makes decent rosin
  • EconMan
    3.1k


    Yeah, four months earlier in this thread :)
    https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/comment/80838
    In short, the little press is a hell of a value. The least expensive press that is a real press. :)

    And while in the area see @Gman creation:
    https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/comment/87045


    PS:
    if you want more, you can search here on "dulytek" and/or "M800" and I've posted pics and opinions and stuff.
  • LabPong
    2.4k
    EconMan
    you have a pic of the m800 in use? That's pretty damn affordable if it makes decent rosin
    John Cocktostone

    There is no "if"........IT DOES make more than decent rosin. I guarantee!
  • John Cocktostone
    752
    ok I will pre order. Not like I'm huge into concentrates anyway
  • LabPong
    2.4k
    I know you will enjoy it no matter how often you use it. I use it for weekend use mainly.

    Or....for live streams haaaaa :starstruck:
  • EconMan
    3.1k
    Not like I'm huge into concentrates anywayJohn Cocktostone

    Not yet! :rofl:


    It's a wonderful little press for the money. I even broke mine being a moron, and they repaired it on their dime. So when I got in the mood for an "upgraded" press, I chose Dulytek. Yet, even still I use the M800 quite often.... more often than the more expensive one probably.
  • fatbiker
    160
    I get excited every time I use my press. Tonight I will load the bags and get them ready for pressing tomorrow. Hopefully the yield will still be good considering I dried my material out a bit. I’ve had it in a cvault for the past week with a 62% Bovida pack.
  • Baron23
    8.2k
    Do take some pics of your Tegridy in action. Love to see what you are doing.

    NV makes some fine stuff, don't they? Really finely built stuff.
  • fatbiker
    160
    I’ll bust out the tripod and get some pics / videos of the press and my novice pressing skills
  • EconMan
    3.1k
    I get excited every time I use my press.fatbiker

    You have a very cool press. Looking forward to those pics.

    Squishing is like sculpting, it's an art form. I've completely stopped caring about yields... I went from meticulous record keeping to none at all. Indeed, I've tried hard to reduce my yields if anything.
  • fatbiker
    160
    Can someone please help me with a question regarding packing a bottle tech style press bag. Once I fold in the corners and start packing is where my questions begin. The two corners folded in form a division on the bottom of the bag. Do you pack material on both sides or just one? I am struggling to get the corners to stay folded inward once I begin to pack. Any tips you can provide on how to keep the corners folded in properly and pack the bag how it is intended would be greatly appreciated.
  • EconMan
    3.1k


    I like my "mesh" to all be on one side. So the little corners that I fold in, I only like there to be flower between one of the sides of the bag and the folded corners.

    And don't feel bad. Everyone struggles with keeping the damned slippery stuff from slipping on other damned slippery stuff :)
    I have found using gloves helps a lot (from burning myself on the plates). I fold the end just like a christmas package. side-over, other side-over, bottom-up. top-down (right here is where the "tape" would go). Then once I have the "wrapping" right, I raise the plates just high enough that I can "cram" the BT monolith into proper position --and if you don't get it into proper position it will get fucked up. You do NOT want the Leaning Tower of Pizza.

    When I do multiple bags at a time, I try hard to get them all the same size. Once I get the first one in using the top plate as "tape", the others are much easier. I also use an extra layer of parchment; a large sheet covering all the plates, and "slices" of parchment for each BT puck. My theory, is this reduces some of the "sizzle" from rosin bleeding out on hot plates.

    Something I've been tinkering with when using BT. I almost always end up cutting the mesh bag anyway, and I take a thin circular cut of it so it is like a rubber band. I stretch it out "north==>south" over the bag which keeps the bag closed while I much-more-easily get it into proper position. A tactical goal is to keep the added mesh material to a minimum. Try it. Works pretty good.
  • fatbiker
    160
    Last weekend I spent some time building a bench for my press and related equipment. Since the pic was taken I positioned and bolted the press to the bench. Game time!

    5f2bee1aldeehtyh.jpeg

    I packed a bag BT style yesterday and let it sit overnight before pressing this morning. I woke up early and eager to squish. I started by lowering my temp to 180F. I then tested with a meat thermometer. It was reading a few degrees warmer but in an acceptable range so I proceeded.

    gwlikkuje45e49uc.jpeg
    lk5a6hsnu7nx1kkc.jpeg


    I closed the plates down nice and slow and let everything heat up thoroughly. It started showing good signs :-)

    Unfortunately, I had a blowout. Somehow it blew out the back of the bag. I even pressed it all down tightly before I put it in the press to make sure no stems were poking out. I picked the puck up and started looking at it and forgot to take a picture. Nonetheless, here is the end result.

    enhhr8rlalwe25kn.jpeg
    6rqtprj6y6c52mue.jpeg

    I am seriously considering a small prepress mood to help avoid situations like this. I know they are expensive but so is the material I am using. I would get a small 2x4 so I can press small amounts frequently and consistently. I’ve tried packing the bag and laying it in the press flat but I feel I lost a lot of material in the edges of the bag. I don’t feel I got a quality extraction that way.

    Let me know your thoughts and suggestions.
  • EconMan
    3.1k


    First, awesome presentation. It's a cool press. And I like the work area you made.
    Second, from the pics, this looks like some tasty Rosin :yum:
    Third, blowouts happen. It is a statistical thing, like atomizers on a puffco Peak
    Fourth, I'm a big believer in prepresses. ALWAYS when I press without a bag. See mine below (2x3). For regular BT you really don't need one, so the better question is when should I do bags via BT and when is bag-flat-pressing preferable?

    4m7w7rcyz4aalmbw.jpeg
    7j39tukiqo9qg9ok.jpeg
  • fatbiker
    160
    My initial thoughts were to get a 2x4 pre press and slide the puck in a bag. Is that not what you do? Are bags not needed with a pre press?

    If I bought a pre press I would just use that all the time. What dictates which method you use aside from quantity pressed.
  • Dr green thumb
    5k
    @EconMan

    Pre pressing and putting through varying size bags is a good idea. The trick is to go slow, a pressing at 180°f can go 6-8 minutes for the first time pressing.

    https://www.dabpress.com/products/dp-pm4007
  • EconMan
    3.1k


    For high quality tasty rosin, bags are required in general in my view. It is true, sometimes if I have nothing made up, and I want a quick dab, I'll press a large nug with my M800 without a bag (even then I cram the nug into a little pollen press first), but this is the exception.
    Serious pressings always have bags.

    Speaking of bags, I've ONLY used Pure Pressure brand and don't know if other brands are any good (or if even the PP are the best brand? They worked the first time so I never tried anything else). For basic flower I use 115u -- some argue 160'ish but I view that as defeating the purpose of the bag which is to reduce gross yield. I turn them inside-out and always inspect them rigorously before using (I don't want a $1 bag costing me $100+ of flower).

    When I prepress with my bags, I prepress with the flower already in the bag (I don't try and slide a puck in). This also lets me get the bag cut and folded properly before actual pressing. And I don't prepress hard, just my body weight from standing on the prepress is fine (math works out to about 30psi). Sometimes, this may take two or three pre-presses until I get my bag filled and arranged the way I want before pressing.

    Lastly, back to blow outs. Almost all my blowouts have come from bottle tech and when I packed the bag too full (so that it wasn't very "compressible"). Hot nylon stretches, but only so far.

    I very rarely get a blowout on a flat-bag squish, just because of its nature. In fact, it's only happened once.
  • fatbiker
    160
    Why don’t you press and then slide the puck into the bag? I think it would be harder to pack, press, pack, press, etc. What brand pre press mold do you have there? If I buy a 2x3 I’ll buy one from NewVape.

    I like the one you sent a link for. However, their shipping is ridiculous. Nice price of $44 for the mold but shipping is $23 for me.

    I’m debating between a 2x3 or a 2x4. I typically like to press small amounts so maybe the 2x3 would be best. I could always make two pucks and slide both into one bag correct?
  • EconMan
    3.1k


    Because I like the bag to be tight over the flower. If it slipped in you would break up the puck. By pre-pressing it while it is already in the bag, it is easier to finger and thumb the buds (I do NOT grind) into the shape desired. It also avoids "loose bag wrinkles" which mostly are a hassle in recovery.

    I'm not exaggerating, on a flat-bag pressing, the placement of pretty much every little nug within that bag is planned and controlled by me -- I try and imagine what the initial pressure will do, what I want it to do, and plan my "rivers". I probably spend ten minutes per bag just packing/prepressing/repacking/re-prepressing/etc. So the bag is already sort of taught around the flower before the pressing even begins, so the puck (which now includes the bag) is firm but not hard.

    I think you'll be happy using a pre-press. I've experimented with various micron sizes of bags, but not the brand of the bags themselves. Let us know your experience.

    Lastly, you have a really cool press. :cool: I think it costs more than both of mine combined? It has a 20 ton capacity (my two units have 1 and 3 ton power) and it stretches the imagination to ever conceive of a situation where that much pressure would ever be wanted much less needed -- so be aware of your likely surges in psi... the sheer power of your press will psychologically make it very easy to use too much pressure. A hypothesis I've been running with is 400psi is ideal and anything over 500psi harms more than helps.

    On my M800, for instance, it has 2x3 plates so for a full plate squish I want to be able to deliver 6si * 400psi ==> 2400 pounds of pressure or 1.2 tons. It was rated at 1 ton which is how I broke it, and even though they replaced it despite my moronicy, this is why I bought a more powerful press. :)
  • EconMan
    3.1k
    All this talk of dabs. My killer “ButterPineScotch” rosin has aged nearly a week now. Time for the first dab of the day — a biggie taken as a sacrament — in my new rig. :love:

    j7zbqggooff5gkrr.jpeg
  • fatbiker
    160
    Tha’ts one hell of a rig! I’d be down and out for a week if I took a hit off of something like that :)

    Thanks man! I really like the new press :) I try not to over squish my bags. Having a press with 20ton capacity I know I can’t use all of it. There would be nothing left of the material lol. I just drew out the inside dimension of a few pre press molds and I think I’m going to go with the 2x4 from The Press Club. I was about to checkout and canceled at the last step. They sent me a 10% off code (FinishCheckout) so I think I’ll go back and buy one. I’m going to send them an email about the blowout too. See if I can get a replacement bag.

    I’ll be back....
  • Baron23
    8.2k
    Nice set up, mate. We seem to think alike with the benches in the garage! haha
    zf1jvf59dvsxn7uy.jpeg

    I have a square pre-press mold and one of these. Not sure why your shipping is so high, but I used the round one and bottle tech and really hardly ever use the square one. Maybe if I wanted to squish a 1/4 at a time, but more likely I would just make up two BT loads and squish them together.

    https://dab-mate.myshopify.com/collections/prepress-mould/products/dp-pm3015r

    I do use a slightly different tech than some others for BT. I do like the Dabpress way of pressing your flower, cutting the bag into a tube, inserting your round puck, and then just folding over both ends. Fuck those corners! haha



    Personally, I think target pressures are too low....for me...but he is a very analytical guy so I'm interested in what he finds. I am finding I'm getting good quality rosin in the 1k - 1.5k psi on the load. But I was DEFININTELY over pressurizing with my 20T press when I started....really just pressing rosin into the parchment paper. Much better results with lower pressure.

    Now, I don't see a gauge on your press so I do agree with Economan that you will need to be careful of your pressure. With a large jack cylinder area (my Micro20 has 4.37 sq inches so 1k on the pressure gauge, on a three square inch load size...which is about right for my BT...yields about 1.5k psi on the load). If you do get a gauge at some point (can this unit incorporate a gauge?), then you will need to know the jack cylinder area and use this forumula: (PSI from Gauge x Jack cylinder area) / area of load = PSI on the Puck

    I have been using 160u bags and I'm not finding flower in my rosin at all unless I blow out.

    I still favor pre-press but yes...body weight only...don't need to press it in a vice or the press itself. I hear people who don't like to pre-press but I don't find the arguements compelling. The trichs are going to get busted up real fast...pre-press or just in the press and I really don't see the down side to it at all. Logically it makes no sense to me...but, I do squish right after pressing. I don't think I want to pre-press then let it sit around for a day....volatile terps and the like may well get lost to evaporation that way.

    best of luck, man....NV makes some fine, fine equipment. Hope it serves you well. Keep the pics coming.

    Oh...by the by, that looks like some pretty dabbable stuff you made there....not at all bad for a first attempt, no?

    Cheers
  • Gman
    984
    But do you slam it down to max pressure right away or do you ramp up? Logically do you see a difference in these two ways of doing it?

    In my mind I see the slow method using "heat" to do most of the work, while the "slam it down" method would use less heat and more "pressure" to do the work of the extraction.

    I personally would rather the heat doing more work than mechanical pressure. This means the medicine is not forced through the plant material cold.
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