• zancru
    1.7k
    Kind of on a stand by phase at the moment, but, still follow the WSL and watch videos all the time.
    Any long time dedicated surfers around this forum???
    I started surfing at the old age of 16, after my family moved to the coast, but got hooked immediately.
    Travel mostly all South American Pacific and Atlantic coast during my younger years.
    Been to Chicama, Puerto Malabrigo, several times.
    Puerto Malabrigo, between Trujillo and Chiclayo cities, north coast of Peru, hosts Chicama, longest wave in the world when proper swell and wind directions align.
    Around a mile of wave, almost 2 minutes rides.
    I timed one myself, after one minute surfing it, your legs are jelly.
    Moved to Costa Rica and lived for 6 years there, before moving to the US.
    80F water made dreams.
    Now, it snows at the beach jajajajajaja
    Fuck me jajajajajajajaja
  • Dr green thumb
    4.2k
    I have never surfed but that sounds like so much fun.
  • zancru
    1.7k

    you're welcome to take surf & spanish lessons with me and my friend surf "school" at CR ;)
    Used to be my surf school, after moving I'm the US partner and connection ;)
    Drugs and party included back there jajajajajaja Doctor's orders jajajaja
    Boy I miss those days, for 6 years probably I never wear shoes, barefoot all the time, Havaianas at the most ;)
    t-shirt???? , what's that???
  • Tyedyesamuraiguy
    958
    @zancru i have always wanted to surf but im geographically challenged. I really love the snow though! The natural mother nature stuff lol though i have heard of a harp angels dont play....
    Did you see the link i posted about the hippies that grow surf boards out of mushrooms??? :starstruck: :scream:
  • To the Cloud
    513
    where you living now ? I hear ya about the warm water. I used to live in Kailua, Oahu as a kid and then got stationed in Hawaii moved to Santa Barbara, cold water but close enough to beach to get out a few times a week. Moved up to Berkeley and pretty much only surf on trips. Was on big island of Hawaii last month , The warm water for me is the difference. I am not a true surfer cause I will not deal with cold weather. it makes the experience not enjoyable to me.

    The guys from Planet of the Vapes are located in Costa Rica, what surf / Spanish School did you work at out there ? I was at School of the World in Jaco for a month in '08. I want to do Witch's Rock Camp in Tamarindo pero ahora no hay tiempo cuando siempre tenga que trabajar. Maybe move To the Cloud out to Costa Rica =)
  • standingsideways
    469
    @zancru
    Man I'm jealous, Costa rica has always been my no. 1 dream surf trip. I've never been as talented in the surf as I am on the snow or at rock climbing but I still love it. I did my surf instructor qualification back in the day in Australia and had the incredible privilege of doing a instructors master class with Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew the original world champion and for me greatest surfer of all time. He was amazing to see on the wave and great fun to have a beer with after the session. Definitely the most awesome person I have met.
    @To the cloud
    I am a bit of a cold water whimp to, I occasionally brave the UK waters but it just isnt as fun as when you can go out in just a pair of boardies. Putting on the gimp wear and having your nutts shrink kind of spoils the fun for me.
  • zancru
    1.7k
    For those folowing the WSL.
    Day 9 of the, "In memory of Andy Irons" Billabong Pipe Masters.
    Last stop of the WSL 2018 Tour.
    Don't miss it if you like the ocean and waves, and surfing.

    http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/364653/its-on-day-9-of-the-billabong-pipe-masters
  • zancru
    1.7k
    Round 4 all the way to the finals today.
    Don’t miss it live from Oahu’s North Shore.
  • Ctipp22
    1.3k
    I was born in Oahu and my brothers live there and are fucking rad surfers. I am alright but my thing was skateboarding/snowboarding. My brothers knew the irons. You live in Hawaii? my oldest brother built a couple skateparks in the jungle. One called Graveside that was torn down and then one called sheepside he just built with the community.
  • zancru
    1.7k

    Hopefully wishing living in Oahu's North Shore.
    Half my life has been at the beach.
    Till I left my country, in 2002, I lived at a coastal city.
    I lived from 2002-2008 at the beach, Pacific Central Costa Rica.
    Visited Oahu a couple times, planning on going asap, more now, knowing that I know you have brothers there ;)
    The Irons are rad. Bruce still rips. My condolences, for Andy's 2010 death, to the family.
    Sad times for the surfing community.
    He was an influential character and 3x World Champ surfer.
    Very rad surfer indeed.
    I skateboarded when young, but concrete is hard, I'm like a fish in the water, I evolved to surfing.
    Never had the chance to snowboard till I moved in 2008 to the US.
    Tried a couple times, second time went to the halfpipe, tried an air, landed on my shoulder, almost broken bone, no more snowboarding for me jajajjaja
  • Ctipp22
    1.3k
    Yeah I have definitely knocked myself pretty hard doing all three. lol I cut my foot on the reef pretty bad once.
  • zancru
    1.7k

    Give me all the time, a reef or fin gash, depending where of course ;) , rather than hard concrete, or almost ice hard snow.
    I don't know how you guys deal with concrete, skateboarders are like rubber, they bounce jajjajaja
    My bones are heavy, I tend to slam myself pretty hard, add fucked up ankles from years of "futbol", soccer here, and it's a bad recipe for skating.
    I did some downhilling longboarding for a few years too.
    But concrete always win, never had the money for good protection pads or leather suit or old leather jacket, and sliding after falling at about 20 or more mph in raw tar paved downhill highways, on your back or side, or belly, ain't funny at all without proper protection.
    At least we had cheapo motorcycle helmets jajajaja no head concussions luckily ;)
  • Ctipp22
    1.3k
    When I skateboarded I had falling down to an art. Kind of ninja like. roll with the momentum of the fall.
  • zancru
    1.7k

    Fucking never learnt that jajajjaja
    I moved at an old age from the countryside to the coast.
    First skateboard I ever saw I was probably 15yo jajajajja
    But I was riding horses since 3yo, and eviscerating animals for human consumption since 5yo jajjajaja
    I learnt to drive and old 1950s Ford truck, before a bicycle. So weird jajajajaja
    I know how to eject from a galloping stumbling horse jajajajaja but still softer ground than concrete.
    Dangerous either way.
  • Ctipp22
    1.3k
    Life was more natural when kids weren't afraid to get a lil roudy outdoors IMO
  • zancru
    1.7k

    Instead of horses, we used to race pigs for fun jajajajaja
    Such fun to grow up in the freedom of the countryside.
    My closest neighbors were family, 2 miles away.
    Coming back cross country, climbing wire fences, wading little creeks and streams,walking in deep dark night, no flashlight, from my uncle's house, as a kid, was the ultimate rad shit your pants experience.
    Besides mofos adults before me leaving, of course start to talk about "luz mala" (evil lights, phosporence from dead animals carcasses shine in deep dark nights or full moons), "chupacabras" "el hombre de la bolsa" (the abductor) etc etc mofos jajajajaja I was only 5yo jajajajaja
    Noises at night, animal noises, plus the wind, makes it a terrifying experience for a little kid.
  • Paxhead
    109
    I lived in Hawaii for a few years in my late teens, in fact even went to Kaimuki High for year 11 in 1962. My parents moved around quite a bit. After finishing year 12 in San Francisco I just had to go back to Hawaii to live and I did. Got a job and surfed, fell in love with the place and the girls...:razz: Loved surfing the south shore, Makaha, Maile, Yokohama Bay. Body surfing Sandy Beach or Makapuu on Sundays. Cockroach bay was also a favorite spot to have a bonfire and a night with the girls. North shore was not my thing. There were big waves to be had when the south shore was on. I recall surfing Makaha on my own one time, wiped out on the take off, was breaking around 12 foot, board went all the way in, (no leg ropes then) I went home after that humbling experience. Surfed Ala Moana heaps, and my favorite hang out was and still is the Waikiki Wall. I did visit ten years ago. Have not been to any of the other islands. Definitely want to go to Maui. There is always this pull to go back to Hawaii. :cool:
  • LabPong
    2k
    Slater in the last heat yesterday.....freaking amazing...proving why he is the best back door at Pipe !
  • zancru
    1.7k

    and he made semis today, only losing to one of the finalists.
    Greatest of all times.
    Not to take merit out of Kelly, but competition is way much fierce nowadays, nobody had Kelly's skills at that time, now at least the top 10 can do more than him if you translate eras, makes sense???
    I love Kelly, he's the Master of all Times ;)
  • Pakalolo2
    692
    @zancru I lived in Hawaii from 1987 thru 1993, we owned “The Register” Yellow Pages and had directories on Oahu, Kauai and the Big Island (Hawaii). When in Honolulu we had a top floor condo in Waikiki across from the Fort.. great views but I love going over to a artist friends home next to Pipeline and “trying to hang” with the locals...no joke. Seriously mad shit happens out there not for the faint of heart. Huge respect for da warriors!
  • LabPong
    2k
    zancru I lived in Hawaii from 1987 thru 1993, we owned “The Register” Yellow Pages and had directories on Oahu, Kauai and the Big Island (Hawaii). When in Honolulu we had a top floor condo in Waikiki across from the Fort.. great views but I love going over to a artist friends home next to Pipeline and “trying to hang” with the locals...no joke. Seriously mad shit happens out there not for the faint of heart. Huge respect for da warriors!Pakalolo2

    Cool deal Pakalolo !

    That same time.....I was refining my surfing ability in the Outer Banks of NC.....Kill Devil Hills to be exact. Full on pirate surf! Those years were epic on the banks.....OBX has a place in my soul. :victory:





    LabPong

    and he made semis today, only losing to one of the finalists.
    Greatest of all times.
    Not to take merit out of Kelly, but competition is way much Fierce nowadays, nobody had Kelly's skills at that time, now at least the top 10 can do more than him if you translate eras, makes sense???
    I love Kelly, he's the Master of all Times ;)
    zancru


    I just love seeing Slater at Pipe....he is amazing there....super charger! Did you see him outwork everyone by going backdoor constantly....paddled his arse off and worked it hard.....then the others just drifting like a cork for a perfect one! lol :strong:
  • LabPong
    2k
    I remember that day you paddled out Magicman.......I got a pic of your first and last wave that day.....

    surfer-brent-dorrington-suffers-a-wipeout-at-pipeline-break-in-oahu-hawaii.JPG
  • THeJokEr
    37
    Kelly Slater could be the GOAT of any sport. What he's done is amazing. There is a great movie about him and his friends growing up in Hawaii surfing. Great watch. it's called Momentum Generation.
  • zancru
    1.7k
    @Dr green thumb@Tyedyesamuraiguy@To the Cloud@standingsideways@Ctipp22@Paxhead@LabPong@Pakalolo2@Magicman@THeJokEr@BobCat

    Stay tuned....
    WSL BIG WAVE TOUR is in GREEN ALERT....
    Mavericks, Half Moon Bay at SanFra, CA it's ON.
    Probably tomorrow start.
    I'm really liking all the enthusiasm guys.
    Surfing is my passion.
  • THeJokEr
    37
    I live across the street from the beach. Lived here most of my life. Love surfing and kayak surfing. Though where I live doesn't have the best waves, its still fun most of the time. Going to the D R in APRIL hopefully getting some good swell.
  • LabPong
    2k
    Mavericks, Half Moon Bay at SanFra, CA it's ON.
    Probably tomorrow start.
    zancru

    Sweettttttttt. Runnin for da gun!
  • Paxhead
    109
    I knew Mark Foo. RIP .. Gravity Sucks ! Is there any video coverage of this?
  • zancru
    1.7k
    In Memorial..... R.I.P guys.

    https://youtu.be/zxgN7Jh9M18
  • Paxhead
    109

    I really like Kailua. So many water activities to do there. My surfing progressed to windsurfing and kitesurfing, after over fifty years of prone paddling. Had to try something new. And of course now, what is on the horizon? Foil boarding exploding in all the board sports. I would dearly love to learn how . I need to get some idea and feeling of what is happening with this little glider under the water and how to control it. They say it is like a feeling of flying..

    My parents used to visit Santa Barbara when we lived in Monrovia and that started me on this lifetime love of surfing, was there on a rubber mattress, and an innertube. Feels like so many lifetimes ago. :smile:
  • Magicman
    1.9k
    I was water ski boy. It made my lats and biceps.....
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